I love seeing other people’s processes, and I thought it was time to give you all another look into what goes on in my workshop. I have blogged before about how I create one of my signature big chunky rings, and I thought it was time to examine that process again. Here’s how I do it!
Firstly, an appropriate width strip of sterling silver sheet .6mm thick is selected.
This is curved by hand using a pair of half round pliers to fit the gemstone.
Next, the strip is cut to approximately the right length on my bench peg using my jeweller’s saw, leaving a small extension for soldering against.
In this video, you see me prepare and apply the borax, position the solder (not usually quite so fumbly, I had a bit of stage fright!) and solder the bezel together.
Once the metal is cool, it goes into the pickle to be cleaned. An explanation of pickle can be found in my previous blog post.
I trim the excess bezel metal away from the solder join.
I check to make sure the bezel is a good fit.
I emery the bottom of the bezel so that it is completely flat and will make a good join with the base plate.
I select a piece of 1mm thick sterling silver sheet to fit the bezel.
I solder the bezel to the backing plate. Here you see me applying the paillons of solder with borax, and soldering the join. Then it’s back to the pickle.
After rinsing and drying, a bit of a check to see how it’s looking!
Now, I saw the excess metal from around the bezel setting.
After filing the edges of the bezel setting, I start creating the ring shank.
Using the appropriate width of 1.2mm thick sterling silver plate, I bend the shank to the right shape and size.
I trim the shank to the right length.
I hammer the shank with a mallet to get it perfectly round (this shot is for explanation only, I actually have the mandrel hard up against the bench to absorb the force when I’m really hammering the ring!).
Emerying the inside of the shank with my flex drive makes life easier.
After more filing and emerying, I stamp the inside of the shank with my maker’s mark and 925, which marks the metal as being sterling silver (the 92.5% is the fine silver content).
I solder the shank to the bezel setting assembly.
Then it’s time for plenty more filing, and coarse to fine emerying to bring the ring close to it’s finished state. (Zen or tedium, you decide!)
Next, I head over to my trusty engraving ball to set the stone.
Plenty of gentle hammering with my setting hammer later…
And my work, bar some tidying up, is done!
There it is, a beautiful drusy agate ring. I do so love what I do!
Even though I am not the most massive tweeter on Twitter, I am on there! One of my twitter friends, Anne, admired this malachite ring that I had made for another of my lovely customers.
I happened to have a similarly lovely malachite cabochon in my gemstone collection, and I was happy to use it create this lovely ring for Anne.
I love the contrast and patterns in this stone, and I think it makes a stunning ring against the silver setting. Thanks for commissioning this ring, Anne!
I occasionally get around to creating something new for myself, and since I’ve been having a little love affair with faceted cabochons of late, I thought I’d make myself another ring!
I needed a black ring, for everyday wear, and this one is great.
I do have a couple more of similar cabochons coming, so if you’d like one of your own, do let me know!
I was recently contacted by Greg, who was after something special for his partner Fi.
They both came to visit me, and Fi was able to choose her very own gemstones from my collection.
A quick measure with my ring sizers, and I created these treasures. I love the blend of amethyst, moonstone and labradorite – it may be a Pisces thing!
I do have lots of smaller gemstones in many gorgeous colours, so if you’d like something similar, do let me know!