At last, a piece that I am going to keep for myself!!
The stone in this ring is howlite, which is most often seen dyed and passed off as turquoise. I just like it in its natural creamy white form!
Surprise, surprise, this ring is huge – the stone is four centimetres long. I like this ring, it’s really nice to wear, compliments most outfits, and it makes me feel happy!!
My grandmother commissioned me to make this sterling silver twisted chain bracelet after she saw the one I made for myself a while back. The links join together in a very precise pattern, so it was very zen to make! There is no catch, the bracelet simply rolls onto your wrist. It is very comfortable, and feels lovely rolling up and down your arm.
Each link is individually soldered, so the piece gets hot very quickly and you can only solder a couple of links at a time. It lived on my workbench, being made in between other things, for many weeks! Lucky Granny is patient..
Have you wanted to buy a ring online, but not known your ring size? It’s always best to get a professional to measure with the appropriate gauges, however if you don’t have easy access to a jeweller then you can try the following to work out your size:
Measuring Your Finger
Take a piece of stiff cardboard, plastic or thick wire and wrap it around your finger, then mark the exact spot where the ends join. Do not use a piece of string or paper, as these will bend to the shape of your finger. A piece of cereal box or similar should be about right for most rings. It is best to make the piece of card etc. the width of the new ring. With a ruler measure the length of this piece of card or wire. Read the ring size by circumference from the chart below.
After you have measured the length then tape it together and put it on your finger just like a real ring. Make it a firm fit, but be sure not to push or squeeze it because you won’t be able to do that with a real ring. Make sure it fits over the knuckle. If you have used a thin piece of wire and your new ring is a wide band you must add some size to allow for this. The reverse may also be true. If you use a wide piece of cardboard but the ring is going to be thin then take a quarter size off.
Your ring should fit your finger comfortably; snugly enough so that it will not fall off, but loosely enough to slide over your knuckle. Finger size changes depending on the time of day and the weather. For best results measure your finger size at the end of the day and when your fingers are warm (fingers are smaller in the early morning and when cold.) Measure finger size three to four times to make sure you get a correct reading.
Measuring an Existing Ring
You may already have a ring which fits the finger you are trying to measure. In this case, measure the inside diameter of the ring. This measurement is taken across the centre of the ring from the inside of one side to the inside of the other side. Measure more than once – the largest measurement will be the correct one. Once you have found that a couple of times you can be fairly sure that it is accurate.
Measure the inside circumference of the ring. Get a stiff rectangular piece of paper as thin as possible, roll it into a tube and slide it inside the ring until it fits perfectly. Keep cutting slivers off the edges of the paper until the ends are just touching. You will then have an inside length that you can measure accurately. Allow a touch extra because the paper will have taken up a bit of space inside the ring. Measure the length of the paper.
You now have two measurements to compare with the chart. You really only need one, but using both will give greater accuracy. Next, take the length of the inside of the ring, and mark this length on a piece of very stiff paper or thin cardboard. Tape it together so that it looks like a ring. Make it as wide as the real ring. Put this on your finger and then try the real ring on. The paper ring must be the same fit as the real ring. If you are measuring someone else’s ring on your finger, even if the rings don’t actually fit you, they will both fit on the same position on your finger. Check the inside diameter and inside circumference measurements against the chart and read the size.
Years ago, I made a little round silver box with a garnet on the top of it to keep embroidery needles in as due to a special project I was making, I suddenly had many of them. The joys of being able to make your own silver things!!
In this box I also keep a tiny note (which used to have my needle stuck in it when I had only one needle). It was written to me in green pencil by my son many years ago when he was quite small – it just says, in his best handwriting, “i love you”.
As part of the goldmithing course I did in 2012 I attended a weekend casting workshop. We did some lost wax casting (more on that later), and also some cuttlefish casting. Yes, really using cuttlefish! Or more correctly, their little (or not so little) cuttlebones. I hasten to add no actual cuttlefish were harmed in the making of this jewellery – their life expectancy is around one to two years, they die soon after mating, and you can quite often find their cuttlebones washed up on the beach.
The procedure for cuttlefish casting is to cut the ends off the cuttlebone and cut it in half. Grind down the two surfaces until they are flush. Carve a funnel in one end of the two halves, and carve your design just below that. Bind the sides together to form a mould, smelt your silver and pour it in!
I cuttlefish-cast the bottoms of these two pieces, then set bezels with bails attached into the cast pieces to create pendants. One is set with malachite, the other with paua shell.
I had to hand these pieces in as part of my final presentation, and then they were sold from my online shop.
Pharaoh Cuttlefish
Cuttlefish are members of the cephalopod family, like ocotpus, squid and nautilus. They emit a brown ink to help them evade predators. This ink, known as sepia, was once prized as a dye. Cuttlefish have green blood, due to haemocyanin, which carries oxygen and contains copper, unlike humans who have iron-containing haemoglobin filled red blood. Cuttlefish have beaks. Cuttlefish have chromatophoric cells, which enable them to change the colour of their skin instantaneously. Aren’t they wonderful! And coincidentally in keeping with my (unplanned) marine themed year!!! Thanks, little guys!!
The second thing I ever made was a pendant, using a banded agate cabochon. I learned (belately!) one of the very important lessons goldsmithing teaches you, which is not to cut corners; near enough is NOT good enough. I made the pendant well, and was pleased with the quality and the way it looked, but when I made the bail, I did not take enough time over it and so was never happy with it. Of course that one element of the piece which was substandard meant that the whole piece was not satisfactory!
I came very close to getting rid of the piece all together, but at the last minute, my husband helped me look at it through fresh eyes, and I realised that all that it needed to be a quality piece was a well-made bail! (Surprise, surprise…) I removed the old one, designed this new spiral one, and now the pendant is in my shop waiting for a new home!
These are the traditional gem birthstones, by month, as listed by the Britain’s National Association of Goldsmiths in 1937, mostly shown here in their beautiful raw form. Stay tuned for other birthstone posts!